Designed as both cartographic statement and trip-planning resource, this
page collates a selection of 119 alpine routes from across the
principal Central Asian ranges and strives to make them legible to an
English-speaking reader. Each black mountain icon represents a single peak
or climbing area: click on it to zoom and see basic information; click a
colour-coded-by-discipline route marker surrounding it for the specific
line it represents. Filter routes by geography, discipline, or aspect with
the tools above the viewer. Peak and route detail cards open below the map.
Over time, as I make ascents, GPS tracks will be added to the map, with the
ability to click through on those to the corresponding posts in the
logbook proper.
Route entries themselves have been compiled from a variety of Russian-language
and international sources by a panoply of Claude instances. While I have
made every effort to ensure sources are cited rigorously, these are not
guidebook entries and are intended for exploration and discovery only.
The basemap is hand-styled Copernicus GLO-30 (wider frame) and NASA HMA
8m DEM (detail view) relief.
Objectives
Peak
Route
Disc.
Grade
Summit
Asp.
Season
Days
Band
Sub-range
West Slope (Ski Descent)
· Музтаг-Ата на лыжах
ski
5А · F / PD · 2.3, E1, ascent PD
7546 m
W
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
22
A
Kongur-Muztagh
West Slope (Beletsky)
· Музтаг-Ата по западному склону
Centre of the Southwest Wall (Nepomnyashchiy)
· Пик Коммунизма по центру Юго-западной стены
alpine
6А · ED2
7495 m
SW
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
24
D
Akademiya Nauk Range
Abalakov Route
· Пик Победы — маршрут Абалакова
alpine
6А · TD+ · AI3
7439 m
N
Jul–Aug (+Sep)
30
D
Central Tian Shan
Northeast Buttress (Zhuravlev)
· Пик Победы — северо-восточный контрфорс
alpine
6А · ED2 · AI4
7439 m
NE
Jul–Aug (+Sep)
30
D
Central Tian Shan
West Ridge via Vazha Pshavela (Classic Route)
· пик Победы — классический маршрут
alpine
5Б · TD · AI2-3
7439 m
WN
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
12
C
Central Tian Shan
Classic Route Ski Descent (Razdelnaya Normal Route)
· Пик Ленина — спуск на лыжах с вершины (классический маршрут через пик Раздельную)
ski
5А (the classic Razdelnaya→Lenina traverse route, «5а л.с.», per mountain.ru — a snow-ice line whose only sustained technical section is the 200 m «нож» summit ridge; the 5А reflects altitude and length more than crux difficulty) · D- · 3.3 inferred — the descent is moderate glaciated snow (general ~25–35°) with the exposed 200 m «нож» ridge and the Razdelnaya summit-cone ice bulges as the localized cruxes (commonly downclimbed); no published Toponeige token exists for the line
7134 m
N
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
16
C
Trans-Alay
North Face Ski Descent (Arkin Route)
· Маршрут Аркина
ski
5А · D+ to ED- · 5.3 E3
7134 m
N
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
18
D
Trans-Alay
Razdelnaya Route
· Пик Ленина
alpine
5А — the Раздельная–Ленина traverse, FASL (St-Petersburg) classifier № 4.4.70 (сн.-лед., траверс, FA V. Kovalev 1954); mountain.ru gives «5а л.с. траверс». The NATIONAL ФАР registry disagrees, grading the same «классика» traverse 4Б (card № 6227 / route № 67, «лс», leader A.N. Kovalyov 1954) — so the 4Б widely seen in operator/tourist literature is in fact the national-federation grade, a genuine FASL-vs-ФАР classifier disagreement, not a mere soft downgrade. The Pik Razdelnaya summit portion alone is separately 3Б (FASL № 4.4.68, Beletsky 1936). See divergence. · AD+
7134 m
NNW
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
17
C
Trans-Alay
Centre of the Southeast Wall (Borisyonok–Ustinov Route)
· пик Ленина — по центру юго-восточной стены
alpine
5Б · TD+
7134 m
SE
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
4
C
Trans-Alay
South Rib (Tseitlin route)
· Пик Корженевской — Южное ребро, маршрут В. Цетлина 1966
alpine
5А · TD · III+
7105 m
S
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
17
C
Akademiya Nauk Range
North Ridge (Ugarov)
· Пик Корженевской по Северному гребню, 5А
ice
5А · TD
7105 m
N
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
25
C
Akademiya Nauk Range
West Face (Troshchinenko route)
· Пик Корженевской — по центру Западной стены, маршрут Л. Трощиненко 1980
alpine
6А · ED2 · VI
7105 m
W
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
20
D
Akademiya Nauk Range
North Classical Route (NE Rib via Chapaev Shoulder)
· Хан-Тенгри по Северо-Восточному ребру плеча пика Чапаева
alpine
5А · TD · AI2
7010 m
N
Jul–Aug (+Sep)
14
C
Central Tian Shan
North Wall Centre (Studenin Route)
· Хан-Тенгри по центру Северной стены, 6А (Студенин, 74)
ice
6А · ED2
7010 m
N
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
9
D
Central Tian Shan
Pogrebetsky Route (Classical South)
· Маршрут Погребецкого
alpine
5А · TD · AI2
7010 m
S
Jul–Aug (+Sep)
14
C
Central Tian Shan
Northeast Slope
· Пик Революции
alpine
5А · TD
6940 m
NE
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
—
C
Yazgulem Range
Classic Route (Pamir Firn Plateau)
· Пик Москва
alpine
5А · TD
6785 m
N
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
—
C
Peter the First Range
Northeast Ridge (Ski Descent)
· Восточная Победа
ski
ED · 5.4 E4
6762 m
NE
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
21
D
Central Tian Shan
East Route (Savvon)
· Пик Карла Маркса — с востока
alpine
5А · TD
6723 m
E
Jul–Aug (+Sep)
18
C
Shakhdara Range
West Ridge
· Пик Карла Маркса — Западный гребень
alpine
4Б · D
6723 m
W
Jul–Aug (+Sep)
20
B
Shakhdara Range
North Ridge (Beletsky)
· Пик Дзержинского — по С гребню
alpine
4Б · D+
6717 m
N
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
—
B
Trans-Alay
East Ridge (Kustovskiy)
· Пик Энгельса — по Восточному гребню
ice
6А · ED1 · M5
6510 m
E
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
10
D
Shakhdara Range
Northeast Wall (Efimov)
· Пик Энгельса — по Северо-восточной стене
mixed
6Б · ED2
6510 m
NE
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
10
D
Shakhdara Range
South Couloir (Kuzmin)
· Пик Энгельса — кулуар Южной стены
ice
5А · TD
6510 m
S
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
11
C
Shakhdara Range
Classic Route (via Pik Kuibyshev and the Pamir Firn Plateau)
· пик Ленинград
alpine
5А · TD
6507 m
S
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
7
C
Peter the First Range
West Ridge
· Пик Чапаева
ice
5А · TD- · AI2
6371 m
W
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
4
C
Central Tian Shan
North Ridge
· пик Паустовского
alpine
3А · AD
6242 m
N
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
—
A
Yazgulem Range
Northeast Ridge
· пик Паррота
alpine
3Б · AD+
6230 m
NE
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
—
B
Yazgulem Range
South Route
· Пик Советской Эстонии
alpine
3А · AD
6202 m
S
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
—
A
Trans-Alay
East Ridge
· Пик Мраморная Стена — Восточный гребень
alpine
4Б · D
6146 m
E
Jul–Aug (+Jun, Sep)
18
B
Central Tian Shan
Southwest Ridge
· Пик Литва
alpine
4А · D
6100 m
W
Jul–Aug (+Sep)
—
B
Shakhdara Range
West Couloir (Ski Descent)
· Ляп Назар — западный кулуар
5 к.с. (ski-tourist system interpretation; the documented summer foot-traverses of this Central Tian Shan sector run 4–5 к.с. with 2Б–3А passes in the upper Bayankol/Sarydzhaz basin) · TD · 3.2 / S3 (inferred from the operator slope descriptions and the glaciated 5,000–6,000 m camp character; no published toponeige token exists for this terrain)
—
—
Feb (+Jan, Mar)
6
C
Central Tian Shan
Borkoldoy Glacier-Camp Ski-Touring (Kara-Sai)
· Хребет Борколдой — лыжный тур из долины Кара-Сай
ski
5 к.с. (ski-tourist system interpretation; the documented summer foot-traverses of the range run 4–5 к.с.) · TD · 3.2 / S3 (inferred from operator slope descriptions and glaciated-camp character; not classified in any published toponeige database)
—
—
Apr (+Mar, May)
12
C
Borkoldoy
Jyrgalan ski-touring base (Boz-Uchuk valley)
· Боз-Учук скитур
ski
PD · 2.2
—
NNENW
Jan–Mar (+Dec, Apr)
7
A
Terskey Ala-Too
Merke Grotto Ice Route
· Ледолазание в Мерке
ice
WI3+ / WI4
—
—
Jan–Feb (+Dec, Mar)
1
B
Kyrgyz Ala-Too
Notes on the data
Band (A–D) is a rough heuristic I've used in tasking
the research agents. It ballparks difficulty from a route's overall
grade to enable rough comparison in terms of progression across disciplines
(for example: A ≈ F–AD / 1А–3А, B ≈ D / 3Б–4Б, C ≈ TD / 5А–5Б,
D ≈ ED+ / 6А+.) The goal is to provide me with some gauge of
progression as I train and begin the guiding-accreditation process.
Altitude, length and remoteness are factored in inasmuch as they form
the basis for the Soviet grading system.
Research confidence marks how deep or tenuous the
sourcing for a given entry was as of last update. High confidence
indicates multiple independent sources including primary accounts from
climbers; Medium indicates some sourcing, but less variety or
no first-hand accounts; Thin means the only available sources
are perfunctory or conflicting and blocks the entry from publication here.
High-zoom relief (z12+ over the climbing areas) is the
NASA High Mountain Asia 8m DEM, unsmoothed; voids are filled from
Copernicus GLO-30 by bilinear underlay, with residual gaps interpolated
by inverse-distance weighting (≤40 cells). Some fine relief is thus
reconstructed, not measured. This map is not a replacement for an
official topographic map or a service such as OnX.